
On the roof of the Duomo, before the weather went south.
I'm back to work in Bristol this weekend after five days in Italy that were not exactly what I had in mind -- but that wasn't a bad thing, in the end. The staples of my itinerary -- the wheres and whens -- held firm, but the whats and hows evaded my control.
I flew into Milan on Sunday night and after two bus rides and a lot of confused wandering, I eventually found my hostel in the back of an apartment block across the street from the biggest disco in the city. The weather was glorious on my first day in the city -- 60 degrees and brilliantly sunny -- and, having seen the foreboding forecast for the rest of the week, I rearranged my plans in order to make the most of it. After Mass inside the Duomo, I climbed up to the top and walked around on the roof, and got my first and only clear view of the Alps in the distance, complete with snow-capped peaks. then I walked south to Ambrose's Basilica, where in the crypt I found, to my surprise, that the remains of SS. Ambrose, Gervasius and Protasius took the rather surprising form of full skeletons dressed in bishops' robes, exposed to full view. I'd expected little boxes full of bone fragments, bits of skin, etc., as you usually find, so it was a bit of a shock. Continuing the patristic theme of the day, after lunch, I took the train to Pavia, a little town about 30 minutes SW of Milan to find the church of San Pietro in Ciel d'Oro, which houses St. Augustine's remains (imported there from North Africa by officious bishops fleeing the barbarians). Tiny, medieval Pavia was a nice setting for an afternoon wander, and I stopped and had a rest and a gelato before heading over to the church. You would never find the church if you weren't looking for it: it's tucked away in the corner of a little square a block or so behind a main road, and I'm sure doesn't attract much accidental tourist traffic. I spent a while in the church, then wandered around town a bit more and came back for Mass later in the evening before heading back to Milan.
Unfortunately, by the next morning, I couldn't ignore that I actually was sick (it happens so rarely that I had been in denial) and the rain had started that wouldn't end for the rest of the trip. Still, neither of these factors slowed me down much, partly because I am both stubborn and cheap, and partly because really, the experience of travel is always rewarding in itself, even when the run of my days doesn't turn out to be particularly guidebook-worthy.
Accordingly, the next three days are best recollected through highlights. Such as: Roman ruins at the Museo Archeologico. A very pleasant evening with a Canadian hairstylist I met at the hostel, spent over a very fine aperitivo and an appalling Chinese-Italian dinner. The views on the train ride south to La Spezia, although I could hardly stay awake. The hike along the cliffs overlooking the Ligurian Sea from Riomaggiore to Vernazza, mostly in the rain. A solitary happy hour spent writing postcards in Vernazza. A consolation, comfort-food dinner of pesto pasta, red wine and an incredible tiramisu when sprinkles turned to a downpour in Monterosso. A long, hot shower with deliciously strong water pressure on arriving back in my very own hotel room in La Spezia. The sheer black humor of arriving in Lake Como and being unable to see the lake, much less the Alps, for the thick grey clouds enshrouding the entire region. An afternoon wander (in the rain, of course) through town and dinner at a pizzeria with an Australian meteorologist in Menaggio. Seeing Mantegna's
Cristo Morto in the Pinacoteca di Brera after abandoning Como as a lost cause and heading back to Milan. Emerging from the metro and walking straight into a six-inch pool of water that left me soaked to the knees, and laughing along with the group of schoolkids who saw me do it. Another consolation meal served by a typically flirtatious young waiter the afternoon I left as the light rain became torrential yet again.

Manarola, gorgeous in any weather.
In short, it was an unexpected, exhausting, very wet, and ultimately very good few days.
You can see it in pictures here. And now, I'm home for a good long while. EasyJet, don't even tempt me with your sales.